Here you can find an overview of the clothing worn during the 1890s that is featured within the Alienist books. For more detailed information on female, male, and child clothing during the late 19th century, please use the menu.
Clothing Overview in the Alienist Books
As the end of the 19th century approached, women’s fashion in America was becoming increasingly sensible as more females participated in sport and were entering the workforce. In everyday wear, women of all classes were demanding clothing that was both practical and fashionable; they generally wore uncomplicated dresses or ‘suits’ which consisted of simple skirts, blouses, and jackets. Evening dresses, whilst still being highly feminine, also conformed to this rationalisation movement by having simpler skirts than had previously been seen.1
These fashion trends are reflected in the Alienist books primarily through the female characters of Sara Howard and Cecilia Beaux, both upper class working women. Sara is said to prefer simple dresses in shades of green with minimal petticoats and bustle. Cecilia Beaux, however, is described in The Angel of Darkness, 113, as wearing:
[A] plain button-down blouse with a little ribbon around the neck, as well as a light linen tunic and a simple skirt to match.
Mary Palmer, a maid in the Kreizler house, also has her clothes described within The Alienist. Although she wears a blue linen uniform when performing her housekeeping duties, she is described as wearing “a pretty white blouse, a plaid skirt, and an apron” (A 154) when cooking breakfast for the investigative team at 808 Broadway. When going on an informal outing with John Moore later that same day, she accessorises the outfit with a small black hat and coat.
Men’s clothing in the 1890s had not changed significantly from earlier decades, although suits were less formal than they had been previously. Consistent with this, the male characters in the Alienist books tend to wear suits made of fabrics that are fashionably coloured or checked. The exception would be Dr. Kreizler who wears black suits every day, even in summer. This is notable as black was considered a formal colour for men’s clothing in the late 19th century.1
For more information on the specific items of clothing that men and women wore in the 1890s, along with popular hairstyles and accessories, pages detailing male and female fashions can be accessed via the side menu. A page on children’s clothing has also been included as children feature prominently in both The Alienist and The Angel of Darkness.
References
1. Nunn, Joan. Fashion in Costume 1200~2000. 2nd ed. Chicago: New Amsterdam Books, 2000.